Beardmore Bros New Project Update 7th December 2003

Update 7th December 2003

If you wish to view previous work then links to updates are above. Work before this date was organised in sections (chassis, engine, bodywork etc) you can see this work by going to "New Project Title Page" above.

I am sorry about the lack of pictures recently, but there has not been that much new and interesting to photograph. The work has mainly been assembly.

The body is fitted and all the aluminium panels are attached with silicon sealer and rivets.

The car is now mechanically complete. The engine runs, the clutch and gearbox work and the rear wheels spin. I had a few problems. The clutch bled very easily and worked for a while but then suddenly leaked fluid. The leaks came from a couple of the fittings, not where I had attached the braided hose but the actual conical seal. The leaks were easily rectified by fitting a soft aluminium cone (see below).

All the plumbing is complete. I had a couple of fuel leaks from the tank. Where the wires for the pumps pass through the top plate on the tank petrol was coming up the inside of the heat shrink. Also there was a slight weep from the fuel return plate, rectified by fitting a redesigned gasket.

To get the engine running I was able to check that everything worked before actual fire up. Oil was added and the pump turned with a drill. I turned the pump for over 5 minutes and there were no leaks and the oil level in the tank did not drop, proving that the scavenge is working. Oil pressure was also good.

By turning the engine by hand I could get a spark, proving the ignition worked, but I could not get a click from the injectors. The problem was traced to an incorrectly supplied relay. I had been given a change over relay instead of a relay that switched both pair of contacts.

The rev counter did not work either, even though it was wired as suggested. From the ECU there is a wire that supplies pulses for a tach., however the signal is very weak and would not give a signal that I required. I ended up taking a signal just before my coil pack.

When the engine fired I had to maintain higher revs than tickover to bed the cams for 20 minutes. The engine ran nicely but the noise from my expansion chamber was horrendous, like a 2 stroke but louder. I think it was giving a very strong pulse and sucking fuel through the valves on overlap which was burning in the exhaust and creating a lot of heat and noise. I have had to remove the chamber and replace it with a silencer. The car is now quiet, the exhaust system a lot cooler and the exhaust very rich. I will play with the chamber at a later date.

I am now working on the moulds for the wings. The front moulds are now layed up, and work will start on the rears.

All that is left to do on the car is the detachable body work, the hood and frame, wire the lights attached to the panels and tune the engine!

New Project Update 7th December 2003

Home	New project (title page)	Update 3rd November 2002

	Update 1st December 2002	Update 25th September 2002

	Update 1st January 2003	Update 9th January 2003

	Update 19th February 2003	Update 20th March 2003

	Update 12th May 2003	Update 20th June 2003

	Update 10th July 2003	Update 11th August 2003

	Update 31st August 2003	Update 24th September 2003

Update 7th December 2003 If you wish to view previous work then links to updates are above. Work before this date was organised in sections (chassis, engine, bodywork etc) you can see this work by going to "New Project Title Page" above. I am sorry about the lack of pictures recently, but there has not been that much new and interesting to photograph. The work has mainly been assembly. The body is fitted and all the aluminium panels are attached with silicon sealer and rivets. The car is now mechanically complete. The engine runs, the clutch and gearbox work and the rear wheels spin. I had a few problems. The clutch bled very easily and worked for a while but then suddenly leaked fluid. The leaks came from a couple of the fittings, not where I had attached the braided hose but the actual conical seal. The leaks were easily rectified by fitting a soft aluminium cone (see below). All the plumbing is complete. I had a couple of fuel leaks from the tank. Where the wires for the pumps pass through the top plate on the tank petrol was coming up the inside of the heat shrink. Also there was a slight weep from the fuel return plate, rectified by fitting a redesigned gasket. To get the engine running I was able to check that everything worked before actual fire up. Oil was added and the pump turned with a drill. I turned the pump for over 5 minutes and there were no leaks and the oil level in the tank did not drop, proving that the scavenge is working. Oil pressure was also good. By turning the engine by hand I could get a spark, proving the ignition worked, but I could not get a click from the injectors. The problem was traced to an incorrectly supplied relay. I had been given a change over relay instead of a relay that switched both pair of contacts. The rev counter did not work either, even though it was wired as suggested. From the ECU there is a wire that supplies pulses for a tach., however the signal is very weak and would not give a signal that I required. I ended up taking a signal just before my coil pack. When the engine fired I had to maintain higher revs than tickover to bed the cams for 20 minutes. The engine ran nicely but the noise from my expansion chamber was horrendous, like a 2 stroke but louder. I think it was giving a very strong pulse and sucking fuel through the valves on overlap which was burning in the exhaust and creating a lot of heat and noise. I have had to remove the chamber and replace it with a silencer. The car is now quiet, the exhaust system a lot cooler and the exhaust very rich. I will play with the chamber at a later date. I am now working on the moulds for the wings. The front moulds are now layed up, and work will start on the rears. All that is left to do on the car is the detachable body work, the hood and frame, wire the lights attached to the panels and tune the engine!
There are 14 pictures on this page, posted 7th December 2003
Curing a clutch leak. The fitting was leaking from the tapered fitting. It was cured by fitting an alloy cone. I now have these alloy cones in all the sizes of hose fitting on the car. One day they will save the day again. They are available from Earls. When I ordered my steering rack I specified more lock than I would need. Now all the body work is fitted I could get just as much lock as I required. The lock is restricted with the alloy spacer. Robin sprayed the bodywork at his house. I borrowed a trailer to get it home. I was very concerned during the 3 mile journey in case any thing happened. This is the car in the garage, note the size. It is now looking like a car. Sorry about the poor pictures. The finished pedal assembly. The little aluminium plates on the floor make the pedal modulation much easier to control. Close up of the pedals. Note the brake light switch and the black knob behind the clutch pedal which is a stop. This means I can just have as much pedal travel as required. This is the inside of the airbox. The trumpets have red blanking plugs fitted. The bellowsare between the two aluminium square rings. A large diameter pipe feeds the air box from an air filter at the front. Even though I am sure the lead manufacturer will probably say it is not required I like to keep my ignition leads seperate. This is the plastic holder I made. The exhaust passes close to the quarter panel behind the passenger door. I stuck heat shield to the panel. Sorry about the poor pictures. Due to the noise from the expansion chamber in the exhaust I removed it and replaced it with a silencer. Fortunately I was just able to replace a section between 2 bolt together flanges. This is a new collector I had to make, from plate and pipe. The new exhaust section in position. This is the front wing ready for making a mould. The aluminium is for the split lines and is attached with double sided tape and rivets.
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