New Project Suspension (page 3)

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John`s words of wisdom. READ THIS WHILE THE PICTURES ARE LOADING.

I often find that one of the most difficult parts of starting a job is having confidence that I am doing it correctly and getting going. Once I am under way I realise that I was worrying too much. So have confidence in yourself and attempt jobs. Also if somebody else can do a job then I am sure I can, if I find out how they do it, I will be able to do it, assuming that I have the correct equipment. Which brings in another subject. We are fortunate to have a well equipped workshop but it hasn`t always been that way. I built the Reliant with very basic tools but now with more gear I do more work myself. For this new project I purchased a TIG welder and small lathe, two essential pieces of kit. If you do not possess a lot of equipment it just means you have to design your parts so you can make them with what you have got. I often find it easy to design a solution to a problem but much harder to design a solution that I can actually make. If I had a mill and could use it then I would be able to make nearly anything. Unfortunately we have not got the space for one. So I have to subcontract any milling to DS ENG. (see links)



Front suspension on.
Castor gauge

The front suspension on. The plates to mount the suspension can be seen. The suspension pick up points are within 2 mm and the geometry is within 0.1 degree.

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I had to make a castor gauge as my inclinometer would not measure directly from the upright. This took 6 hours to make. When measuring castor it is important that the upright is pointing forward.
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Front upright.

Mounting in detail.

The steel push in taper inserts for the ball joints in the upright could pull out so I have doweled them in. Also a big washer sits on the alloy to ensure that they definitely will not move. The manufacturer of the uprights says that an insert has never come out but the fact that they could worried me.
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The mounting method for the wishbones to the chassis offers me complete freedom in the position of the pick ups. By making new plates and spacers I can alter the pick up position. Also in a accident the plates should shear and leave the chassis undamaged.
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Front suspension on.
Levelling rear suspension.

This picture shows the large size of the wishbones and how each pick up coincides with the corners of the chassis. Pushrods will actuate inboard coil over units.

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The rear suspension was put together using the same methods as at the front. Castor was determined by ensuring the bottom mounting bolts on the upright were level.( Using the surface plate and scribe block.)
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Rear suspension going on.
Rear suspension on.

Clamps were used to hold the plates while I measured the size of the spacers required. Mounting the suspension took 6 days.

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The rear suspension in position. The steeper angled top wishbone is due to having a roll centre that is higher at the rear.
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Mocking up pushrod.


Mounting plates finished.

The rear coil overs will also be in board operated by push rods. The positioning of the coilovers will be angled to the centre of the car above the diff.
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These are the plates for mounting the wishbones. They will be plated to prevent corrosion.

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